As with all things beautiful, preference in an Italian destination is certainly subjective. I have spent an incredible amount of time in both Tuscany and Umbria and still go back and forth contemplating which place is "better". In my opinion neither is the victor, however, it will always depend on what one is seeking while on holiday.
Tuscany: The Famous One
Tuscany is large and its capital city, Florence, is one of the most stunning in the world. Siena, San Gimignano, Volterra, Cortona, and many others are beautiful medieval towns with impressive art, architecture, and history. There is little argument to the remarkable quality of the wine produced in Tuscany and the diverse choices in wineries, accommodations, and activities are plentiful. The Tuscan region of Italy is a sophisticated destination that will always amaze me with its beauty and the kindness of its people.
Umbria: The Hidden Gem
Umbria is the region south of Tuscany and north of Lazio. It is landlocked and often skipped over by tourists while they make their way from Rome to Tuscany or vice versa. Assisi and Orvieto are frequented by Rome or Florence day-trippers and tourists usually empty out in the afternoon hours.
Umbria is the home of the black truffle (Piedmont has the white truffle) so their culinary dishes usually include truffle as a main ingredient. The region also has a rich history and stunning medieval towns top their hills. As a region, its landscape is more mountainous and hillier than its northern neighbor. Perugia, its capital, is home to the Baci chocolate company and has an international youthful vibe dictated by its popular University for Foreigners.
So, Which One?
The Case for Tuscany
Tuscany is extremely touristic. It caters to travelers and therefore in some areas of the region it lacks authenticity. Many of the hotels and wineries are owned and run by non-Italians, which is not a knock on their excellence. I have personally visited a lot of these businesses and have been impressed by the quality of their goods and services. However, at times it doesn't quite feel "Italian".
Most people in Tuscany speak English and cater to tourists so service is excellent at most places of business. Tuscan cuisine is probably the most famous kind of Italian cuisine aside from pizza. You will not be disappointed with the abundance of fresh dishes found all over the region. A Tuscan cooking class is a wonderful way to learn how to replicate these dishes when you return home.
A downside to Tuscany is that it can be very expensive, especially in the summer months. Accommodations and restaurants tend to be pricier because of their popularity with travelers. If you are a traveler who likes to explore outside of popular touristic sites, that will be challenging. Most of the lesser-known towns and sites in Tuscany have become popular through social media and are now full of travelers.
The Case for Umbria
If you are seeking a more "off the beaten path" authentic destination that looks a lot like Tuscany, Umbria is a winner.
Umbria is not nearly as touristic as Tuscany. Assisi is probably its most frequented town further north with Orvieto as a close second in the south. Orvieto has good train connections from Rome so it's a popular day trip from Italy's capital. However, the rest of the Umbrian region I would describe as a diamond in the rough.
Medieval hilltop towns are sprinkled throughout the landscape and the region's pilgrimage sites bring an additional layer to Umbria's character. Assisi, Monteluco, Cascia, and Gubbio are just a few. In fact, for those looking for some enlightenment, the Via di Francesco is a wonderful opportunity to explore Umbria. One does not need to be devout to enjoy the St. Francis Way. The route of Saint Francis consists of hiking trails and roads that can be enjoyed on foot, horse, or bike.
I have left the two best things for last. Umbria is inexpensive AND most things are off the beaten path, so a traveler can experience far less crowds, a more authentic Italian experience, and Michelin quality food for a fraction of the price. Truffle is shaved onto every dish without hesitation and the quality of the food all over the region is incredible. Keep in mind Umbria is catering mostly to Italians, not foreign tourists.
The downside to Umbria is fewer options for accommodations, not as many people speak English, and the choices for activities is not as abundant.
How Can You Get a Taste of Both?
If this is your first trip to Tuscany, try to stay in the southern part of the region near Pienza or Montepulciano. This way you can rent a car and do day trips to popular Tuscan destinations like Siena, San Gimignano, Montalcino, and Cortona. This gives you the freedom and convenience to cross over the border to Lake Trasimeno and northern Umbrian cities like Assisi, Spello, Perugia, and Gubbio. This way travelers can have the best of both worlds in one trip.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Umbria cheaper than Tuscany?
Yes, significantly. Hotels, restaurants, and experiences in Umbria typically cost much less than comparable options in Tuscany. You can enjoy Michelin-quality food with fresh truffles for a fraction of what you would pay in Florence or Siena.
Which region is better for first-time visitors to Italy?
Tuscany is more accessible for first-timers since English is widely spoken and tourist infrastructure is well developed. However, if you want authenticity over convenience, Umbria offers a more genuine Italian experience.
What is Umbria known for?
Umbria is famous for black truffles, the medieval town of Assisi (birthplace of St. Francis), Orvieto's stunning cathedral, Baci chocolates from Perugia, and its pilgrimage routes like the Via di Francesco.
Can I visit both Tuscany and Umbria in one trip?
Absolutely. Stay in southern Tuscany near Pienza or Montepulciano, and you can easily cross into northern Umbria for day trips to Assisi, Spello, Perugia, and Lake Trasimeno.
References
- Regional tourism information for Tuscany and Umbria comparing visitor numbers and tourism infrastructure.
- Umbrian food and truffle production documentation from regional culinary associations.
- Via di Francesco pilgrimage route information and historical background.
- University for Foreigners of Perugia historical and demographic information.
