Umbria is known for its verdant mountains and hills and some of its special places are best known for their colorful flowers and ancient history. Spello, an ancient Roman colony dating back to the 1st century B.C. is a beautiful hilltop town located on the southern side of Mount Subasio. Known for its flower-filled balconies and porches, it is located just 15 minutes south of Assisi and worth a visit or perhaps an extended stay. Although its foundations are ancient Roman the current town is Medieval complete with fortified walls, characteristic of hilltop towns during the Middle Ages. Although Umbria’s northern Tuscan neighbor boasts some of the most famous Renaissance art, Umbria can claim some impressive Renaissance works. Spello’s Santa Maria Maggiore Church has the famous frescoes of the renowned Pinturicchio. His work can also be viewed at the Church of Sant’Andrea located just a few minutes from Santa Maria Maggiore.
If you are interested in Spello’s ancient past pay a visit to the Villa of the Mosaics located at the bottom of the old town. Discovered in 2005, the modern complex built to protect the excavation site is a worthy stop and highlights Spello’s importance in Roman archaeology. In fact, it was reported in January 2024 that a large Roman temple complex had been discovered underneath a Spello parking lot. This small Umbrian town holds a wealth of Roman archaeology.
If you are lucky enough to be in Spello in June you may be able to experience Le Infiorate Di Spello. This summer it will take place June 1-2, 2024. I was fortunate enough to be staying in Spello during the Flower Festival and it was absolutely stunning. Building up to the weekend, locals meticulously place flower petals on the ground creating intricately designed flower carpets. The carpets cover the cobblestoned streets and continue for blocks throughout the town. Visitors come from near and far to witness the flower carpets so expect huge crowds and traffic on the flower festival days.
Hint: If you decide to visit during Le Infiorate Di Spello make sure you book a local restaurant ahead of time. We had to leave Spello to eat lunch and dinner because we had not made reservations.
Accommodations in Spello are scarce. You will find ample apartment and villa rentals in and around Spello but the cities of Assisi and Spoleto offer more diverse options of hotels and bed and breakfasts. We go to Spello every summer and book our villa stays through www.buonanottebarbanera.it These are luxury rental accommodations and the pictures do not do the properties justice. Andrea, the host, can arrange experiences, private chefs, and housekeeping services.
If food is more your currency than art, Spello has delicious restaurants and wine bars. My personal favorite is Enoteca Properzio located in Piazza Giacomo Matteotti. The menu is wonderful and features local specialties like Tagliatelle al Tartufo preferably washed down with a full-bodied Sagrantino Red.
Hint: Umbria is home to the black truffle so it is often used in multiple dishes and is inexpensive compared to other regions of Italy.
Don’t let Assisi be your one and only Umbrian destination. Take a short trip to its southern smaller neighbor, Spello, and bask in the beauty and history of one of Italy’s most beautiful and historical hilltop towns.
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