As with all things beautiful, preference in an Italian destination is certainly subjective. I have spent an incredible amount of time in both Tuscany and Umbria and still go back and forth contemplating which place is “better”. In my opinion neither is the victor, however, it will always depend on what one is seeking while on holiday.
Tuscany is large and its capital city, Florence, is one of the most stunning in the world. Siena, San Gimignano, Volterra, Cortona, etc. are beautiful Medieval towns with impressive art, architecture, and history. There is little argument to the remarkable quality of the wine produced in Tuscany and the diverse choices in wineries, accommodations, and activities are plentiful. The Tuscan region of Italy is a sophisticated destination that will always amaze me with its beauty and the kindness of its people.
Umbria is the region south of Tuscany and north of Lazio. It is landlocked and often skipped over by tourists while they make their way from Rome to Tuscany or vice versa. Assisi and Orvieto are frequented by Rome or Florence day-trippers and tourists usually empty out in the afternoon hours. It is the home of the black truffle (Piedmont has the white truffle) so their culinary dishes usually include truffle as a main ingredient. Umbria also has a rich history and stunning Medieval towns top their hills. As a region, its landscape is more mountainous and hillier than its northern neighbor. Perugia, its capital, is home to the Baci chocolate company and has an international youthful vibe dictated by its popular University for Foreigners.
So, which one?
Tuscany is extremely touristic. It caters to travelers and therefore in some areas of the region it lacks authenticity. Many of the hotels and wineries are owned and run by non-Italians which is not a knock on their excellence. I have personally visited a lot of these businesses and have been impressed by the quality of their goods and services. However, at times it doesn’t quite feel “Italian”. Most people in Tuscany speak English and again cater to tourists so service is excellent at most places of business. Tuscan cuisine is probably the most famous kind of Italian cuisine aside from pizza. You will not be disappointed with the abundance of fresh dishes found all over the region. A Tuscan cooking class is a wonderful way to learn how to replicate these dishes when you return home. A downside to Tuscany is that it can be very expensive especially in the summer months. Accommodations and restaurants tend to be pricier because of their popularity with travelers. If you are a traveler who likes to explore outside of popular touristic sites, that will be challenging. Most of the lesser-known towns and sites in Tuscany have become popular through social media and are now full of travelers.
If you are seeking a more “off the beaten path” authentic destination that looks a lot like Tuscany, Umbria is a winner.
Umbria is not nearly as touristic as Tuscany. Assisi is probably its most frequented town further North with Orvieto as a close second in the south. Orvieto has good train connections from Rome so it’s a popular day trip from Italy’s capital. However, the rest of the Umbrian region I would describe as a diamond in the rough. Medieval hill top towns are sprinkled throughout the landscape and the region’s pilgrimage sites bring an additional layer to Umbria’s character. Assisi, Monteluco, Cascia, and Gubbio are just a few. In fact, for those looking for some enlightenment, the Via di Francesco is a wonderful opportunity to explore Umbria. One does not need to be devout to enjoy the St. Francis Way. The route of Saint Francis consists of hiking trails/roads that can be enjoyed on foot, horse, or bike. I have left the two best things for last. Umbria is inexpensive AND most things are off the beaten path so a traveler can experience far less crowds, a more authentic Italian experience, and Michelin quality food for a fraction of the price. Truffle is shaved onto every dish without hesitation and the quality of the food all over the region is incredible. Keep in mind Umbria is catering mostly to Italians not foreign tourists. The downside to Umbria is less options for accommodations, not as many people speak English, and the choices for activities is not as abundant.
How can you get a taste of both?
If this is your first trip to Tuscany try to stay in the southern part of the region near Pienza or Montepulciano. This way you can rent a car and do day trips to popular Tuscan destinations like Siena, San Gimignano, Montalcino, Cortona, etc. This gives you the freedom and convenience to cross over the border to Lake Trasimeno and northern Umbrian cities like Assisi, Spello, Perugia, and Gubbio. This way travelers can be able to have the best of both worlds in one trip.
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